Tekst: Hugo carlson
foto: olof händén
Handmade shoes are crafted with precision and meticulous workmanship by skilled shoemakers using traditional techniques. This method ensures that every pair of shoes is carefully constructed by hand, resulting in superior comfort, quality and durability. This meets the high expectations of shoe connoisseurs and consumers who demand excellence in the leather finish, fit and craftsmanship. Every step in the process showcases the pride and skill in the craft. A single pair of brogue boots from Crockett & Jones takes around two to eight weeks to make, and the perforation patterns on many brogue designs are made manually using hand-operated machines.
Another example of a craftsmanship tradition is the "Clicker". Crockett & Jones, John Lobb, and Edward Green still employ shoemakers who hand-cut the leather for many models, though more are beginning to modernise this technique. A shoemaker of this kind primarily has responsible for inspecting the leather for defects and trimming it. Leather defects can include barbed wire scars, marks, growth rings, or stretch marks. An experienced Clicker—whose name comes from the ‘click’ sound when the knife is removed from the leather—must be knowledgeable and highly skilled to maximise the use of the leather while maintaining the highest quality.
By using premium leather and durable materials, our selected handmade shoes ensure a high standard of quality. Only carefully chosen calf leathers, known for their durability and ability to mold to the foot over time, are used, resulting in a perfect fit and a long lifespan. A well-made handmade leather shoe should therefore feature carefully selected leather, handmade stitching and finish. A Goodyear welted sole means the shoe is welt-stitched, constructed with a durable and repairable method where the sole is attached to a welt through a special stitching process, providing long-lasting durability, an elegant appearance, and added protection against water.
Handmade leather shoes should be viewed as a long-term investment. They last significantly longer than mass-produced shoes thanks to their materials, construction, timelessness, and the ability to care for and restore the shoes, sparing you from buying a new pair each season. A high-quality shoe can be resoled, further extending its lifespan and saving money in the long run. Additionally, shoes from established British manufacturers often retain a high resale value, should you wish to pass them on or invest in a pre-owned pair.
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